The Complete Guide to Stari Grad, Hvar: Best Things to Do

Escape the crowds and uncover the timeless charm of Stari Grad, Hvar’s quieter, culture-rich side.

There’s no doubt that Hvar has earned its reputation as one of Croatia’s most dazzling islands—sun-drenched, full of glamour, and backed by centuries of layered history. From the clinking cocktail glasses in Hvar Town’s high-end beach clubs to the lavender-scented hillsides of its quiet interior, the island somehow manages to be both stylish and deeply soulful.

But it’s Stari Grad, on the island’s northern side, that offers a different rhythm altogether. One of the oldest towns in Europe, Stari Grad trades showy yachts for fishing boats, and beach bars for Renaissance courtyards.

It’s the kind of place where you fall into slower habits—morning swims, long lunches, and golden-hour walks along the Riva before settling in for a glass of local wine. It feels lived-in and authentic, with a strong sense of identity and a deep connection to the land.

I spent a week on Hvar exploring as much of the island as I could—hiking rocky trails, cycling through olive groves, and sipping wine in tiny stone villages. But it was the time I spent in and around Stari Grad that stayed with me most.

I based myself there for a few days, using it as a calm and grounding base to explore the northern side of the island. Between early evening walks through the old town, tasting wine on ancient farmland, and swimming in quiet coves, Stari Grad revealed itself as one of Hvar’s most rewarding corners—timeless, understated, and endlessly atmospheric.

How to Get to Stari Grad

Reaching Stari Grad is simple once you familiarise yourself with the transport options available. Located on the northern side of Hvar Island, the town is accessible by ferry from mainland Croatia or by road from other parts of the island. Below are the two most common routes: from Hvar Town and from Split.

Getting to Stari Grad from Hvar Town

If you’re staying in Hvar Town and planning to explore Stari Grad, the trip takes about 25 to 30 minutes. The route cuts through the island’s interior, passing vineyards, olive groves, and rolling countryside.

Driving yourself is the easiest option, and this is what I did. Rental cars and scooters are widely available in Hvar Town. The road is paved, scenic, and clearly marked, though it can be narrow in parts. There’s limited parking in the center of Stari Grad, so plan accordingly if you’re arriving in high season. I didn’t have any parking issues in October.

If you prefer not to rent a car, public buses run several times a day and provide a reliable connection between the towns. It’s an affordable option, ideal for those traveling without a vehicle. Schedules can shift depending on the time of year, so it’s best to confirm times in advance at the local station in Hvar.

Taxis are available throughout the island and offer a comfortable, door-to-door option. Fares from Hvar Town to Stari Grad typically range from €30 to €40, depending on the time of day.

Getting to Stari Grad from Split

If you’re arriving from the mainland, the most efficient way to reach Stari Grad is by ferry from Split. The journey offers views of the Adriatic and is easy to navigate, even during peak travel months.

Jadrolinija operates a car and passenger ferry service between Split and Stari Grad, with multiple departures daily in the high season. The trip lasts about two hours. Ferries arrive at a port located about 2 kilometers from Stari Grad’s town center. You can walk into town in 20–25 minutes or take a short taxi ride.

Tickets can be purchased online or at the ferry terminal in Split. Advance booking is recommended during summer, especially if you’re bringing a car.

Read more: Best Things to Do in Hvar, Croatia

Best Things to Do in Stari Grad, Hvar

Stroll the Waterfront ( Stari Grad Riva)

The Stari Grad Riva is the town’s social heart—a long, breezy promenade where the old world meets island life at its most relaxed. Framed by Venetian Renaissance buildings and dotted with open-air cafés and restaurants, it’s the kind of place that invites lingering.

You’ll pass fishing boats moored side by side, ice cream stands doing brisk business, and a handful of souvenir stalls bright with ceramics, lavender, and nautical trinkets.

It’s especially atmospheric in the early evening, just before sunset, when the light turns golden, the terraces begin to fill, and the whole scene feels simply idyllic – easily of the best things to do in Stari Grad and a superb place to begin.

Explore the Old Town

Stari Grad’s old town is a quiet maze of stone-paved alleyways, shaded courtyards, and centuries-old facades that invite slow, unhurried exploration. Wandering through the narrow Venetian-era streets, you’ll find yourself moving between the practical rhythm of local life and the architectural charm of the island’s past.

Start your walk along Srinjo Kola (Middle Street), the town’s main historic thoroughfare. It’s one of the oldest streets on the island and is lined with traditional stone houses, small artisan shops, and tucked-away entrances that lead to hidden courtyards.

From there, head to Škor Square, a small but atmospheric square often used for local events and outdoor performances. It’s surrounded by beautiful houses with carved balconies and has a lived-in charm that makes it feel like time hasn’t quite caught up here.

Just a short walk away is Ploča Square, a wider, livelier space near the waterfront. It’s ideal for a coffee stop or a quick break in the shade before continuing on. With its mix of Renaissance and Baroque elements, it reflects the town’s layered history—and it’s a great spot to sit back and people-watch.

The beauty of Stari Grad’s old town lies in its scale—you don’t need a map or a guide. Just wander, look up, and let the stone walls and sun-dappled alleys lead the way.

Visit the Stari Grad Plain

Just beyond the edges of town lies the Stari Grad Plain, a UNESCO World Heritage site that’s quietly extraordinary. This ancient agricultural landscape—first laid out by the Greeks over 2,400 years ago—is still in use today, divided into stone-walled plots of olive groves, vineyards, and fig trees that haven’t changed much in centuries.

Because the plain covers a wide area, the best way to explore it is by hiring a bike for the day. There’s a network of flat, accessible trails that wind through the fields, perfect for a slow ride with plenty of stops for photos and olive oil tastings.

If cycling isn’t your thing, you can also drive—just take your time, as part of the experience is the gentle pace and sense of history all around you. Whichever way you go, the plain offers a peaceful counterpoint to the coast and a deeper connection to the island’s roots.

Go Wine Tasting

Hvar’s winemaking heritage dates back over 2,000 years, with the Stari Grad Plain—one of the oldest continuously cultivated vineyards in the world—at its heart. Today, the island’s vintners continue this legacy, producing wines that reflect the unique terroir and indigenous grape varieties.

Exploring the local wineries offers not only a taste of exceptional wines but also an insight into the island’s rich cultural tapestry. Here are some of the top local wine spots to visit.

Hora Hvar – Located within the Stari Grad Plain, Hora Hvar isn’t exactly a winery but instead provides a unique farm-to-table experience. They offer wine tastings featuring local varietals, complemented by dishes prepared from organic produce grown on-site. The setting, amidst ancient vineyards and olive groves, offers a serene backdrop for a leisurely afternoon of culinary delights.

Relax on the Stari Grad Beaches

While Stari Grad is known for its history and charm, it also offers access to some beautiful and surprisingly quiet beaches on the island—ideal for swimming, sunbathing, or doing absolutely nothing at all. Most are a short bike ride or walk from the town center, set against the clear, turquoise waters of the Adriatic and framed by pine trees and smooth rock shelves.

Maslinica Bay – Just a 15-minute walk west of the ferry port, Maslinica Bay is one of the most popular spots for a swim. It’s a wide, pebbled beach with shallow, calm waters and plenty of space to spread out. Despite its popularity, it rarely feels crowded, especially in the shoulder season.

Oslic Beach – A smaller, more secluded option, Oslic Beach is great for those looking to escape the crowds. Tucked along the coast heading toward Rudine, it offers a mix of rocky platforms and pebbles—perfect for quiet swims and uninterrupted reading sessions.

Brizenica Bay – Located on the northern coast of Stari Grad, Brizenica Bay features a set of bays and serene swimming spots, including some FKK beaches. This stretch of coast features smooth white stones, clear water, and a peaceful atmosphere. It’s not a typical beach club setup—just nature and space to relax.

Bonj Beach – Located on the northern side of Stari Grad Bay, Bonj Beach is a family-friendly pebble beach accessible by a pleasant walk or bike ride along the seaside. The beach offers amenities such as a nearby restaurant and is suitable for children due to its shallow waters. The presence of natural shade from surrounding trees makes it a popular option close to town.

Hike up to Glavica Hill

For one of the best panoramic views of Stari Grad and its bay, take the short hike up to Glavica Hill, just behind the town. It’s not a long or difficult climb—more of a steady uphill walk—but it rewards you with sweeping views over the old town’s rooftops, the harbor, and the surrounding vineyards of the Stari Grad Plain.

The path starts near the town center and winds gently through pine trees and low Mediterranean scrub. It’s peaceful, uncrowded, and ideal in the late afternoon when the heat has begun to fade.

Sunset is the perfect time to go—you’ll see the sky turn gold over the water, the boats return to the harbor below, and the town takes on that soft, rose-tinted glow that only Hvar seems to deliver.

Bring a drink, good shoes, and a camera—or don’t, and just enjoy the stillness. It’s a moment of calm above it all, and one of the most memorable ways to end a day in Stari Grad.

Visit St. Stephen’s Church

Right in the heart of town, St. Stephen’s Church stands as one of Stari Grad’s most important landmarks. Built in the 17th century on the site of an even older cathedral, the church blends Baroque architecture with elements of the island’s earlier religious history.

Its bell tower, made from stone quarried on the nearby island of Brač, is one of the tallest in Dalmatia and a defining feature of the Stari Grad skyline.

Step inside to admire its quiet, elegant interior—modest, but rich in detail. You’ll find carved altars, stone columns, and a peaceful atmosphere that offers a quick break from the sun and the buzz of the nearby squares. It’s well worth a short visit while exploring the old town.

Visit the Fortress of Petar Hektorović (Tvrdalj Palace)

One of Stari Grad’s most fascinating sites is the Tvrdalj, the 16th-century fortified residence of Petar Hektorović, a Croatian poet and nobleman best known for blending literature with architecture. Hektorović was a Renaissance figure through and through—a humanist, thinker, and one of the first to write in the Croatian vernacular.

His most famous work, Fishing and Fishermen’s Talk, is part travelogue, part philosophical reflection, and was inspired by his time spent sailing and speaking with local fishermen.

His home, which he designed and built himself, reflects his ideals. The fortress includes a walled courtyard, fish pond (still home to mullet today), inscriptions in Latin and Croatian, and a tranquil garden filled with medicinal herbs and native plants.

While the exterior is austere, the interior is poetic—literally carved with verses about peace, nature, and the passing of time.

A visit here offers more than a look at historic stone walls—it’s a glimpse into the mind of one of Croatia’s literary pioneers and a quiet, reflective space in the heart of town.

Take a Trip to Vrboska and Jelsa

If you’re spending a few days in Stari Grad, Hvar, it’s well worth making time for a short trip to Vrboska and Jelsa, two charming towns on the northern coast of Hvar Island—each offering a different slice of island life, just a 15–20 minute drive or bike ride away.

Vrboska is often called “Little Venice” thanks to the small canal that runs through its center, crossed by stone bridges and lined with boats. It’s quieter than Stari Grad, with a relaxed, artsy feel and a surprisingly impressive church-fortress—built to protect the town from pirate attacks in the 16th century.

The harborfront is perfect for a slow stroll or a morning coffee with sea views.

Jelsa, a bit larger and livelier, has a beautiful waterfront promenade, wine bars, and a few pebbled beaches just steps from the center. It’s also a hub for local wine production, so if you didn’t get enough tastings in Stari Grad, this is the place to continue.

You’ll find a mix of history, coastal charm, and a laid-back pace that makes it easy to settle in for an afternoon—or longer.

Both towns are easy to reach and ideal for a day trip or a half-day escape if you’re looking to explore more of Hvar beyond the main stops.

Where to Eat

Stari Grad may be quiet, but its food scene punches well above its weight. Here you’ll find traditional Dalmatian kitchens as well as stylish modern bistros. Stari Grad, Hvar, offers a range of restaurants that combine fresh island ingredients with real character and international elements.

Albatros – a family-run restaurant celebrated for its Mediterranean and Dalmatian dishes. Set within a centuries-old stone house, the atmosphere here hits the mark. Signature offerings include grilled tuna, octopus, and a selection of local wines. One of the finer-dining spots in Stari Grad.

Antika Restaurant – Housed in a historic townhouse dating back to 1566, this spot offers a blend of traditional and contemporary Dalmatian cuisine. Dine in the charming interior, along a cobblestone alleyway, or on a secluded upstairs terrace. The menu features seafood specialties and house-made focaccia, complemented by a curated wine list. This is one of the most delicious meals I’ve had in Stari Grad.

Pinetta – authentic Dalmatian cuisine and pleasant outdoor seating. We ordered a sharing board of all the local specialities and it made for a perfect, casual lunch.

Nook – I wanted to try Nook, but it was already closed for the season when we visited. Set in a garden-filled courtyard, they specialise in delicious international-inspired cuisine- think roast duck, fish and chips, and green curry as well as lots of veggie and gluten-free options.

Lampedusa Bar – Not sure about the food here, but it’s one of the best bars in Stari Grad, for waterside drinks as the sun sets.

Where to Stay in Stari Grad

Stari Grad offers a range of accommodations to suit various preferences, from luxurious resorts to charming heritage villas. Here are three standout options I recommend booking.

Maslina Resort – A five-star Relais & Châteaux property, Maslina Resort combines contemporary design with natural materials, offering rooms, suites, and villas with sea views. You can enjoy amenities such as a spa, infinity pool, and fine dining, all set amidst olive groves and pine forests near Maslinica Bay.

B&B Heritage Villa Apolon – Located in a 19th-century neoclassical villa along Stari Grad’s waterfront, this boutique bed and breakfast features eight elegantly furnished rooms with modern amenities

Valamar Amicor Resort – An eco-friendly, family-oriented resort offering beachfront access, multiple pools, and a water park. Accommodations include modern rooms and villas, some with private pools.

Best Time to Visit Stari Grad, Hvar

The ideal time to visit Stari Grad is between May and September, when the weather is warm, the sea is swimmable, and the town is at its most vibrant.

May and June offer mild temperatures, blooming landscapes, and fewer crowds—perfect for outdoor activities and relaxed exploration. July and August are the hottest and busiest months, with long sunny days and a lively island atmosphere. Stari Grad stays calmer than Hvar Town, but advance bookings are essential.

September is a local favorite—harvest season begins, the sea is still warm, and the summer crowds begin to thin. October brings cooler weather and a quieter pace. Some restaurants and hotels start to close, but it’s ideal for travelers seeking tranquility. I visited at the beginning of October, and it was a fantastic time to experience Hvar.

November to March is the off-season. The town slows down considerably, and many businesses close, though it’s peaceful for those seeking a low-key escape, but I personally wouldn’t recommend visiting during this time.

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So, which of these best beaches in Hvar do you plan to visit? Let me know below, I’d love to hear from you.

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